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Eating to Extinction

The World's Rarest Foods and Why We Need to Save Them

ebook
1 of 1 copy available
1 of 1 copy available

A New York Times Book Review Editors' Choice
What Saladino finds in his adventures are people with soul-deep relationships to their food. This is not the decadence or the preciousness we might associate with a word like "foodie," but a form of reverence . . . Enchanting." —Molly Young, The New York Times
Dan Saladino's Eating to Extinction is the prominent broadcaster's pathbreaking tour of the world's vanishing foods and his argument for why they matter now more than ever

Over the past several decades, globalization has homogenized what we eat, and done so ruthlessly. The numbers are stark: Of the roughly six thousand different plants once consumed by human beings, only nine remain major staples today. Just three of these—rice, wheat, and corn—now provide fifty percent of all our calories. Dig deeper and the trends are more worrisome still:
The source of much of the world's food—seeds—is mostly in the control of just four corporations. Ninety-five percent of milk consumed in the United States comes from a single breed of cow. Half of all the world's cheese is made with bacteria or enzymes made by one company. And one in four beers drunk around the world is the product of one brewer.
If it strikes you that everything is starting to taste the same wherever you are in the world, you're by no means alone. This matters: when we lose diversity and foods become endangered, we not only risk the loss of traditional foodways, but also of flavors, smells, and textures that may never be experienced again. And the consolidation of our food has other steep costs, including a lack of resilience in the face of climate change, pests, and parasites. Our food monoculture is a threat to our health—and to the planet.
In Eating to Extinction, the distinguished BBC food journalist Dan Saladino travels the world to experience and document our most at-risk foods before it's too late. He tells the fascinating stories of the people who continue to cultivate, forage, hunt, cook, and consume what the rest of us have forgotten or didn't even know existed. Take honey—not the familiar product sold in plastic bottles, but the wild honey gathered by the Hadza people of East Africa, whose diet consists of eight hundred different plants and animals and who communicate with birds in order to locate bees' nests. Or consider murnong—once the staple food of Aboriginal Australians, this small root vegetable with the sweet taste of coconut is undergoing a revival after nearly being driven to extinction. And in Sierra Leone, there are just a few surviving stenophylla trees, a plant species now considered crucial to the future of coffee.
From an Indigenous American chef refining precolonial recipes to farmers tending Geechee red peas on the Sea Islands of Georgia, the individuals profiled in Eating to Extinction are essential guides to treasured foods that have endured in the face of rampant sameness and standardization. They also provide a roadmap to a food system that is healthier, more robust, and, above all, richer in flavor and meaning.

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    • Library Journal

      August 1, 2021

      BBC food journalist for a quarter-century, Saldino points out that globalization has reduced what we eat--once nearly 6,000 different plants--to the point where only nine are major staples today. In fact, only three key plants--rice, wheat, and corn--account for half of the caloric intake worldwide. Before it is too late, Saldino travels the world to highlight important foods that are in danger of being lost. With a 75,000-copy first printing.

      Copyright 2021 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

    • Publisher's Weekly

      September 27, 2021
      BBC journalist Saladino debuts with an illuminating survey of vanishing varieties of food and the people struggling to preserve them. “Of the 6,000 plant species humans have eaten over time, the world now mostly eats just nine,” he writes. This decline of dietary diversity, driven by the demand to produce crops on “an epic scale,” has triggered a nutritional and cultural depletion that’s spanned the globe, as made evident by the sweeping scope of Saladino’s research. He explores populations that still source their food from the wilds, such as the Hadza, a shrinking tribe of Tanzanian hunter-gatherers who derive 20% of their calories from honey. Endangered types of wheat, oats, and crimson-tipped rice are uncovered in Turkey, Scotland, and China, respectively, while red peas—brought by enslaved Africans to the U.S. low country—nearly met their demise at the hand of real estate developers on Sapelo Island, Georgia. In South Korea, a small family farm fights to preserve the Yeonsan Ogye, “one of the rarest chickens on Earth,” completely black in color, down to its beak and bones. The result is an agricultural investigation that’s fascinating in its discoveries while sorrowful in documenting what has been lost. Agent: Mel Flashman, Janklow & Nesbit Assoc.

    • Library Journal

      January 1, 2022

      Saladino, a BBC food journalist and broadcaster, explores the physical and cultural extinction of thousands of foods that had traditionally been part of the human diet. Even if it feels like contemporary Western societies have more access to more foods than ever before, Saladino asserts that people are missing out on the nutrition of the thousands of foods that are not part of their diets. Not only have people become distant from the sources of their food, but they often don't know how to grow or prepare them, resulting in homogenized diets. Additionally, the mass-production of fewer foods is unavoidably altering the ecosystem. The result of research throughout Saladino's lengthy career, this book takes readers on a global journey to taste foods at risk of extinction, like Tanzanian honey (plus fruits, vegetables, grains, meats, and even sweets and alcohols). In the resulting hefty volume, Saladino does a comprehensive job of describing the economic, cultural, and industrial forces that have impacted food production, while refraining from the shaming tone and unrealistic propositions sometimes found in similar books. VERDICT Foodies and slow food enthusiasts will appreciate this deep dive into the history and diversity of global foods and the call to preserve them.--Jennifer Clifton

      Copyright 2022 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

    • Booklist

      Starred review from October 1, 2021
      Into this maelstrom of climate change that all of us are now experiencing, to varying degrees, Saladino, longtime reporter for the BBC's The Food Programme, brings more bad news, seeded with some good. He lays out a diverse menu of millennia-old, hardy, tasty, supremely nutritious foods now missing from the diet of a world that's scarcely taken notice: bere in Scotland, the Andean oca, the ancient wild citrus memang narang grown in far-northeastern India, the South Korean black Ogye chicken, and nearly all 1,000 varieties of banana but the Cavendish, which has monopolized the world trade but now faces a devastating, widespread fusarium wilt. However utterly despairing these tales read, Saladino profiles those who are finding ways to regenerate these foods against implacable odds: a barley miller on the Orkney Islands, an American botanist helping the Bolivian and Peruvian governments save the oca, an Indigenous people of India protecting their precious store of memang narang, a lone South Korean chicken producer, and a botanist who's using "reconstructive breeding" to apply ancient, lost traits to create a more-resilient, Cavendish-like plant. A deeply saddening, too-familiar story containing yet a kernel of hope.

      COPYRIGHT(2021) Booklist, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

    • Kirkus

      Starred review from November 15, 2021
      Fascinating descriptions of Indigenous and mostly disappearing foods, plus an alarming message. Veteran BBC food journalist Saladino emphasizes that world food production exploded after World War II when scientists produced superproductive grains, plants, and livestock. Though these developments drastically reduced famine, the mechanics involved require enormous inputs of chemicals, fertilizer, and water. Relying on elite, high-yield species eliminated those that didn't measure up, diminishing their diversity. Today, rice, wheat, and corn provide half of all human calories. Most global pork comes from a single breed of pig, and more than 95% of U.S. dairy cows are a single breed, the Holstein. Limiting food diversity has been enormously profitable for large corporations, but the future consequences make scientists uneasy. "We are living and eating our way through one big unparalleled experiment," writes the author. Having defined the problem, Saladino chronicles his travels around the world, describing dozens of vanishing edibles and pausing regularly to deliver the history of the major foods and food production. Readers will be intrigued and educated by his interviews with experts who warn of our disastrous dependence on a shrinking number of standardized foods. Commercial barley can't survive in the cold, infertile islands north of Scotland, but its ancestral variety does fine. Although nearing extinction in the wild, Atlantic salmon is a familiar food item because almost all of them are farm raised. Bred to be faster growing and meatier, they have become a bland domestic food animal no less than the chicken or cow. Though there are more than 1,500 varieties of banana, most markets are dominated by the Cavendish, a cloned fruit grown in immense monocultures visible by satellite. Being genetically identical, they can't evolve and so can't develop resistance to disease, which inevitably spreads like wildfire. One specific disease is currently devastating the Cavendish, but scientists are working to edit the plant's DNA "to find a fix against the disease." A delightful exploration of traditional foods as well as a grim warning that we are farming on borrowed time.

      COPYRIGHT(2021) Kirkus Reviews, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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